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Throughout history, Iran has been celebrated as a cradle of art and culture, serving as a meeting point for diverse nations and civilizations. During the Safavid era, the country experienced a remarkable flourishing of handicrafts, with Termeh weaving emerging as one of the most prominent. Among these, Termeh, known for its intricate and original designs, not only graced noble homes and official settings but also became a symbol of Iranian artistry and refinement. This luxurious and exquisite fabric transcends its decorative purpose, embodying an artistic spirit and national identity that has been lovingly preserved and passed down through generations.
Termeh weaving remains one of Iran’s most treasured artistic traditions. Over time, it has evolved in response to shifting geographical and cultural influences, yet it has managed to retain its significance.
This article explores the history and development of this ancient craft, the impact of geography (with a particular focus on Yazd’s central role in its production), as well as the traditional tools and techniques used in its creation from past to present.
The history of Termeh and Termeh Weaving in Iran
The history of Termeh and Termeh weaving in Iran dates back several centuries, with its origins rooted in the Safavid era, particularly during the reign of Shah Abbas. This period marked a turning point and the flourishing of the art of Termeh weaving. Shah Abbas invited prominent artists from China and Armenia to Iran, fostering a cultural and artistic exchange that significantly boosted the development of this craft. Influenced by these foreign artists, Iranian designers and weavers adopted new styles, creating fabrics with intricate and delicate patterns. Remarkable designs from this era include the Shah Abbasi flower, Botejegheh, and the Shakhgavazni motif, each inspired by nature and contributing to the exceptional beauty of Iranian Termeh.
During this time, Termeh weaving emerged as a luxurious and highly popular art form. It held a
prominent place in the royal courts of Iran and was also prized internationally as a valuable commodity.
The exceptional quality and striking designs of these fabrics earned Iranian Termeh worldwide acclaim, making it one of Iran’s most significant export products and a vital source of national income. Termeh weaving, however, was only developed in a few specific regions of Iran due to the high level of precision and skill required. Cities like Yazd, Kashan, Isfahan, and Kerman became the main centers of Termeh production, with talented artisans in these areas dedicated to crafting these exquisite fabrics.
What sets Termeh apart from other textiles is not just its intricate and delicate patterns, but also the use of natural colors and high-quality raw materials, such as premium silk and wool, which contribute to the fabric’s soft, durable, and long-lasting texture.
Geographical Influences on Termeh Production
Iran, with its diverse and expansive climate, has long been a hub for cultivating handicrafts. Among the key geographical factors impacting Termeh production is the unique climate found in certain regions of the country. Yazd, a city renowned for its history in Termeh weaving, stands out as a pivotal area in this tradition.
Yazd, with its hot, dry climate and arid land, has always been a city focused on handicrafts and the arts.
Despite its challenging conditions for agriculture, Yazd has managed to preserve and develop the art of Termeh weaving. The region’s reliance on agriculture and animal husbandry has always been limited, prompting the local population to explore alternative livelihoods. This drive led to the flourishing of handicrafts, especially Termeh weaving. Additionally, Yazd’s strategic position along international trade routes allowed for easy access to raw materials like silk and wool, further facilitating the production of Termeh.
Traditional Termeh Tools and Equipment
Iran, with its diverse and varied climatic conditions, has long been a hub for the cultivation of
handicrafts. One of the key geographical factors influencing the production of Termeh (traditional Persian textiles) is the unique climate found in certain regions of the country. Yazd, in particular, stands out as a significant area in the history of Termeh weaving and is considered the primary center for this art.
The introduction of the Chaharvardi machine in the Termeh weaving industry made the production process more efficient and mechanized. This advancement not only sped up Termeh production but also allowed weavers to create fabrics with more intricate and precise patterns.
This Device Consists of the Following Components
Ward: A key part of the device that raises and lowers the warp threads, creating space for the weft thread to pass through.
Rolling: Responsible for gathering the woven fabric. The weaver wraps the fabric around the roller to create more space for continued weaving.
Pedal: Allows the weaver to control the warp threads. By pressing the pedal, the warp threads are moved, creating the necessary space for the weft thread to pass through.
Makou: A tool that holds the bobbin and moves it back and forth across the warp threads, placing the weft thread between them.
Bobbin: A small spool that holds the weft thread, placed inside the makou for weaving.
Termeh Production Methods: Past and Present
In the past, Termeh production was done by hand using a technique known as “finger weaving.” This method involved women using their nails like needles to thread the yarn, carefully passing it through other threads. It was a completely manual process, requiring great attention to detail. Over time, wooden workshops began to emerge, introducing tools such as the four-wheeled weaving device.
These machines, which required two or three people to operate, included a weaver and a thread-puller.
The thread-puller’s role was to lift the threads, allowing the weft thread to pass through the warp threads. In traditional methods, the fabric was woven first, and then the designs were sewn on by hand. However, with the development of wooden tools, designs began to be created at the same time as the fabric was woven. Initially, wool was used for weaving, but over time, silk was also incorporated.
In the 1340s, Jacquard machines were introduced to Iran, gradually replacing traditional equipment with more modern tools. The Jacquard machine, invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard, used strings and punched cards to control the warp threads. This innovation eliminated the need for earrings and allowed weavers to plan designs on the cards before starting the weaving process. It also made it easy to change designs during the weaving, offering greater flexibility and efficiency.
The Evolution of Termeh (From the Past to the Present)
In the past, Termeh was considered one of the most luxurious and valuable fabrics, reserved for special occasions or given as exquisite gifts. It was primarily used to create royal garments, as well as fine rugs, carpets, lavish curtains, and elegant tablecloths. Termeh was also a popular choice for weddings and ceremonies, where its beauty and refinement made it highly sought after.
Today, the use of Termeh continues to be versatile. Beyond its traditional applications, it has carved out a special place in the modern world. Termeh is now used in designing contemporary clothing, hand embroidered bags and accessories, as well as home decor items. By blending tradition with modernity, Iranian artists and designers have worked to incorporate this precious fabric into everyday life,
showcasing its beauty and originality in modern products.
